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A sharp knife is both more enjoyable and safer to use, enabling you to use minimum effort to achieve maximum control with your blade. Some of the best culinary knives will hold their edge for a long time, but every knife, no matter how hard the steel or how good the edge geometry, will eventually dull with use. Here are some tips to help you keep your knives cutting well.
Making Your Edge Last As Long As Possible Before we talk about sharpening, it’s important to cover some basics for how to keep your knife’s edge from dulling as quickly. Knife Storage - Knife blocks, magnetic racks, and sheaths are all great ways to store your knives and keep their edges safe from harm. Sheaths can be made from wood, leather, plastic, or even cardboard. Knives stored loose in a drawer will chip and dull quickly as they come in contact with one another, and once you sharpen them, the unprotected edges pose a serious risk of injury. Cutting Board Choice - In the kitchen, the surface you cut on will also determine the longevity of your edges. End-grain wood boards, or butcher blocks are the very best, followed by wood, Richlite, and plastic cutting boards. Bamboo cutting boards are okay in a pinch, but the fibers can be abrasive and cause edge damage. Avoid cutting on glass, ceramic, stone, or metal surfaces (including pie plates and dinner plates). Signs That Your Knife Needs To Be Sharpened As soon as you notice that a knife requires more effort to cut than it used to, then it is time to touch up the edge. You can also hold the knife under a bright light source with the edge facing you, and if you see light reflecting off the edge of the knife, the knife is dull in that spot. A sharp edge appears as a thin, dark line. Touch-up Sharpening (Honing) Most of the time, a dulled edge only requires a brief honing to restore it to peak performance. I recommend using either a leather strop or a ceramic rod for this step. The Strop - A leather strop is often associated with honing shaving razors, and it consists of a strap of leather coated in a fine abrasive (I use white buffing compound,) and the strap can be either hung from a hook or mounted on a board. To use the strop, simply hold your knife blade at approximately 15 degrees to the surface and drag it lightly backward across the leather. Repeat this process until the knife is sharp, alternating from side to side with each stroke and checking for sharpness every 10 strokes or so. The Ceramic Rod - The ceramic rod is an updated version of the traditional butcher’s or honing steel, with which most of us are familiar. The ceramic serves as a gentle abrasive to lightly sharpen and re-align the edge of the knife. There are a variety of ways to use a ceramic rod, but the safest is to hold the rod vertically, point-down on a cutting board, and gently slice downward with the knife with the edge at approximately 15 degrees to the rod. As with the strop, repeat this process on the other side of the blade, and alternate from side to side until the knife is sharp again. Edge Restoration If your knives have been severely chipped or dulled, it may require more aggressive sharpening methods to restore it to full sharpness. A sharpening stone, also known as a whetstone, is the tool of choice for this step. Sharpening stones come in many grits and types, but I recommend a 1000 to 1200 grit stone for general sharpening of culinary and utility knives. Using a Whetstone - There are hundreds of different kinds of stones available, and they typically require either oil or water to work properly. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions as to which lubricant to use for sharpening. I prefer Japanese water stones and diamond stones for most of my sharpening purposes. To use a whetstone, hold the knife at a 10-15 degree angle to the surface of the stone and drag the knife from one end of the stone to the other, and from heel to tip of the knife. Use the same number of strokes on each side in order to keep the edge of the knife centered. Once the knife is sharp, hone the edge with either a strop or ceramic rod, as described above. The Final Test Once your knife looks sharp, with no bright spots on the edge, it’s time to test it. My favorite test for edge consistency is to hold up a piece of newspaper and slice through it. A sharp knife will cut cleanly through, while any dull spots or chips will tear the paper, indicating the places on the edge that require further sharpening. Sharpening Systems As a knife maker, I confess I am a bit of a purist when it comes to sharpening, preferring free-hand sharpening with whetstones to any of the myriad different sharpening systems or knife sharpeners available on the market. Having tried very few of them, I can’t recommend any particular product, but if sharpening with whetstones seems too challenging (I promise it’s really not,) you may choose to do your own research and try them out. If you choose to go this route, here are two features to avoid: Carbide Blades - Carbide looks just like steel, but it is much harder, and many knife sharpeners, especially the pull-through variety, use carbide blades to quickly remove metal from the edge of the knife. The carbide blades tend to tear the steel, leaving a jagged edge, and will often chip harder, higher-quality blades. The resulting edge feels very sharp, but will dull quickly, as the jagged points on the edge break off and bend over, requiring more frequent sharpening and shortening the lifespan of the knife. Motorized Sanders & Grinders - Grinders and sanders are important tools in the knife-making process, but they tend to be too aggressive for sharpening purposes. These motorized tools make it easy to remove too much material from the edge and shorten the lifespan of your knife. Sharpening Video Tutorial If you would like to see all of the processes described above in video format, be sure to check out the tutorial I posted on my YouTube Channel: How to Sharpen a Knife 
A knife positioned on the stone at an appropriate sharpening angle (wooden wedge for reference)
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Here are ten of the best custom chef and culinary knives that I have made in my career to-date. Each of these knives is one-of-a-kind and exemplifies a combination of artistic form and functional design. All of these knives are already sold, but if you are interested in purchasing a unique piece of edged-art for your kitchen, please sign up for my newsletter for early access to any new work. 
“Rift” — I made this dramatic, K-tip gyuto for the Art of Cutlery exhibition, curated by EatingTools in October 2024. The blade was forged from 300-layer, carbon steel Damascus with an integral bolster. The handle was sculpted from camatillo rosewood and curly acacia with silver spacers and a Damascus rear bolster. The blade is convex-ground, for excellent all-round cutting performance, and at nearly 11 inches from heel to tip, it is ideal for an experienced chef with heavy cutting requirements. 
“Deep Roots” — This culinary knife features one of the most complex Damascus patterns I have ever made. The bold, high-contrast pattern adorns a supremely functional blade with an integral bolster and a symmetrical S-grind, for superior food release and ease of cutting. The handle and the saya (wooden sheath) of “Deep Roots” are both curly acacia wood with hand-sculpted flowing curves and contours. The butt-end of the handle also includes an inlay of African blackwood and stainless steel. 
Chinese Cleaver — The Chinese vegetable cleaver, or Cai Dao, is an excellent all-purpose knife, and can be used for nearly every kitchen task, from breaking down a chicken to mincing ginger and garlic, to transferring cut veggies from the cutting board to the wok. This unique Cai Dao elevates its form to the highest level, incorporating a reeded desert ironwood handle and an ornate chrysanthemum pattern in gold and silver koftgari. The blade of this Chinese cleaver is pattern-welded steel with an S-grind for improved cutting performance.
“Mojave” — This chef knife, with its bold “windmill” Damascus pattern and its spiral-fluted handle, won the award for ‘Best Chef Knife’ at the Atlanta Blade Show in 2024. “Mojave” has an S-ground blade and an integral bolster, and the desert ironwood burl handle terminates in a stainless steel cap with an African blackwood inlay. 
Katana Sujihiki — This unique chef knife is made in the style of a sujihiki, or a Japanese slicing knife, but it is styled to resemble a katana. The blade for this knife was made from special hearth-melted steel, or ‘oroshigane,’ made by Emiliano Carrillo. Oroshigane is quite similar in both chemistry and appearance to the traditional Japanese steel used for their legendary swords. The handle is a complex composite construction of maple burl and synthetic ivory, and it includes metal fittings made from shibuichi (a copper/silver alloy) at the front and rear. 
Indian Rosewood Chef Knife — This chef knife is one of two knives that I made in India, while I was studying there on a Fulbright grant in 2022. The blade was forged from a mill ball, used in the concrete industry to crush stone. I forged this blade in a makeshift blacksmith shop, ground it on a stone wheel, and polished it by hand. The handle is reclaimed Rosewood from an old spice pounder, and the steel fittings are covered in thick, gold koftgari by my teacher, Sandeep Singh Chauhan. 
“Io” — Named for Jupiter’s volcanically active moon, this chef knife features a W2 carbon steel blade with a dramatic hardening line, or ‘hamon.’ The handle is made from fiery maple burl flanked with black walnut and silver spacers. Sterling silver tacks evoke distant orbiting bodies. 
Master Smith Gyuto — This elegant chef knife was one of the five knives that I submitted for judging to earn my Master Smith certification in the American Bladesmith Society in 2021. The blade features an active mosaic pattern in the Damascus steel, as well as an S-grind for food release and cutting performance. The handle is sculpted Turkish walnut with stainless steel and G10 spacers. 
Master Smith Sujihiki — This long slicing knife was also one of the five knives that I submitted for judging to earn my Master Smith certification in the American Bladesmith Society in 2021. The slender blade is forged from my “Mountain Riffle” pattern Damascus steel. The straight-octagonal handle is inspired by traditional Japanese chef knife handles, and it is made from curly Australian red gum, flanked by stainless steel and nickel silver spacers. 
Go Mai Gyuto — This chef knife exemplifies a simpler form of elegance, achieved through careful design and premium materials. The blade is ‘go mai,’ or 5-layer steel with ApexUltra high-carbon steel in the core, 410 stainless steel in the jacket, and pure nickel in between. Apart from its attractive appearance, go mai steel offers improved corrosion resistance while retaining the benefits of a high-carbon steel edge. The handle for this knife is my classic “Farmstead” handle in maple burl, paired with a black Richlite bolster.
If you would like to commission a culinary knife to your specifications, you can start the process by filling out my contact form and sending me a description of what you are looking for.
If you are looking for a limited edition culinary knife that has been hand forged and is ready to order, feel free to check out my shop. 
In any kitchen—whether it’s a home cook’s counter or a Michelin-starred restaurant—no tool is more essential than a quality chef knife. A top-rated chef knife is more than just sharp; it’s a combination of expert craftsmanship, premium materials, and functional design, with a little aesthetic flair to top it all off. But what truly sets the best chef knives apart from the rest? Let’s break down the key factors.
1. Expert Craftsmanship A top-tier chef knife should be cleanly and intentionally made. The finishes should be clean with no errant machine marks or dips and dents, and the blade and handle components should fit tightly together with no gaps between them. A knife should be sharp on the cutting edge, and nowhere else! Any sharp transitions or edges on the handle or the back of the blade can cause discomfort to your hands when you are using the knife, and an expert craftsman will always attend to those details that make the knife comfortable to hold. 2. Premium Materials Top-rated chef knives are made from good high-carbon steel or high-carbon stainless steel. The edge should take a keen edge and hold it for a long time, and the edge should be thin enough to slice a ripe tomato or chiffonade herbs without crushing them. The handle should be a durable and water-resistant material, such as stabilized wood, tropical hardwood, or phenolic composite (such as Micarta or G10.) Plastic and silicone handles hold up well enough, but they lack the aesthetic appeal of more premium materials. 3. Functional Design Balance: A chef knife should feel like an extension of your hand. Well-balanced knives distribute weight evenly between the handle and the blade, allowing for smooth, controlled motions. Some chefs prefer a heavier knife for cutting through tougher foods, while others favor lighter, more agile blades. The key is that it should feel comfortable and stable in your grip. Handle design: Comfort is crucial, especially for long prep sessions. Choose a handle that fits in your hand — a handle that is too thick can be tiring to use, whereas a handle that is too slim will be more difficult to control. Try out several options and see what you like best. Blade Grind: The blade of a top-rated chef knife should be thin at the edge and rigid on the spine. A chef knife that bends too much will make it difficult to use the tip of the blade to its full advantage. Many top-rated knives also incorporate compound grinds, such as an S-grind, to improve food release and cutting efficiency. The blade shape should also be suited to your style of cooking. A “German” profile with more curve in the edge will be better for rocking on a cutting board, whereas a straighter French or Japanese edge will be better for push cutting. 4. Aesthetic Flair Cooking is an inherently social activity. We cook to feed our patrons or our families or our friends, but the best food is almost never consumed (or prepared) alone. A top-rated chef knife should have an aesthetic appeal that sets it apart, to catch the eye of anyone watching and to demonstrate its quality visually. Eye-catching handle profiles, striking Damascus patterns on the blade and dazzling combinations of exotic materials can set a top-tier knife apart and increase its value considerably. Investing in a quality chef knife transforms cooking from a chore into a satisfying craft. If you’re serious about your kitchen tools, choosing the right chef knife is a cut above the rest. Want a guide to choosing your first premium kitchen knife or are looking to commission your own custom kitchen knife? Here is my contact form to start the process. If you are looking for a limited edition kitchen knife that is ready to order, feel free to check out my shop. About The Author Jordan LaMothe is a Master Bladesmith, a Fulbright scholar, a member of the Art Knife Invitational Show, and a teacher of knife-making. His work has won numerous awards and has been published in magazines internationally. 
A utility knife is one of the most versatile tools you can own—whether you’re working in a workshop, warehouse, or out in the field. But with so many styles and features on the market, what exactly makes one the best? Let’s break down the essential qualities that separate the top-tier utility knives from the rest.
Blade Quality At the heart of every great utility knife is a sharp, durable blade. The best blades are made from high-carbon steel or from a cutlery-grade stainless steel. High-carbon steels are usually easier to sharpen, but stainless steels have the added benefit of corrosion resistance, making them a lower-maintenance option. Even good steel can perform badly if it is not properly heat treated, so choose a maker or manufacturer you trust. In general, thin edges will cut more easily (great for harvesting crops, whittling, or cutting rope), whereas thick edges will hold up better to heavy use and abuse (like opening boxes with staples in them, cutting drywall, or cutting electric fence wire.) Choose your blade based on the kind of work you think will be doing the most. Ergonomic Handle Design A good utility knife feels like an extension of your hand. Look for handles that are comfortable to use. Make sure there are no sharp edges on the spine or handle and that the handle is sized appropriately for your hand. Versatility Utility knives, by definition, are expected to perform a variety of tasks. Here are a couple of key features to consider:
Ease of Maintenance A top-tier utility knife should be easy to clean and sharpen. The finishes should be smooth and the different components should fit tightly together with no gaps. Integral-bolsters on fixed-blade knives make them both stronger and easier to clean. For folding knives, the blade action should be crisp and clean with a solid lock and closure. Durability and Construction Whether you're in the kitchen or on a job site, a utility knife should withstand heavy use. Look for:
Size and Weight The best knife to use is the one that you have, so choose a knife that is easy to carry and deploy whenever you need it. Bigger knives offer more power for heavy cutting, whereas smaller blades tend to be less-cumbersome and easier to carry on a belt or in a pocket. A slim but wide handle offers a good middle-ground that is comfortable to carry but rigid enough for more difficult tasks. The best utility knife is one that suits your specific needs, cuts well, is easy to maintain, and lasts a long time. Investing in high quality will pay dividends in efficiency and precision. Always consider what tasks you’ll be using the knife for most, and choose a model designed to excel in that environment. If you choose well, you’ll find yourself with a trusted, versatile tool that serves you on a daily basis, and you will never want to leave home without it. Want a guide to choosing your first premium kitchen knife or are looking to commission your own custom kitchen knife? Here is my contact form to start the process. If you are looking for a limited edition kitchen knife that is ready to order, feel free to check out my shop. About The Author Jordan LaMothe is a Master Bladesmith, a Fulbright scholar, a member of the Art Knife Invitational Show, and a teacher of knife-making. His work has won numerous awards and has been published in magazines internationally. 
A great kitchen knife isn’t just a tool—it’s an extension of the chef’s hand. Whether you're a home cook prepping weeknight meals or a seasoned professional creating culinary works of art, the right knife makes all the difference in the kitchen. But what exactly makes one kitchen knife better than another?
Here are the essential factors to consider when choosing a knife that is right for you: Blade Grind The best knife is the knife that cuts most easily, and few factors have quite as much an impact on the ease of cutting than the way a blade is ground. There are three primary types of grinds: flat, hollow, and convex; along with an endless variety of different “compound grinds,” which combine two or three of the primary grinds in different sections of the blade. If you are curious about the grind of your chef knife blade, hold a ruler or straightedge across the “flat” side of the blade. If the knife is flat-ground, the straightedge will lie flat on the surface, with no visible gaps underneath it. If there is a gap in the middle between the straightedge and the blade, it is hollow-ground, and if the straightedge can rock back and forth slightly, then the blade is convex-ground. Most high-performance chef knives are either convex-ground or feature a compound grind such as an “S-grind.” A convex-ground blade allows for a thin but stable edge, and it provides better food release than flat and hollow grinds, which tend to be a little more sticky. If food release is a priority for you and your style of cooking, then an S-grind is probably the best way to go. Many Japanese knives have asymmetrical blade grinds, where the knife is convex-ground on one side and hollow-ground on the other. These knives can be extremely effective for certain tasks, such as making fine shavings of tuna for sushi, but those knives are typically specialized blades, and not as versatile as symmetrically-ground knives for all-round kitchen use. Thickness A high-performance kitchen blade can be thick or thin at the spine, depending on the user’s preference, but behind the edge is where the thickness really matters. The thinner the knife is behind the edge, the better it will cut, but there are also tradeoffs. Thinner edges are more fragile, and require more careful use. An edge so thin that it flexes slightly under pressure might cut like a laser through soft veggies, but if it comes into contact with bone while breaking down a chicken, you will very likely end up with a severely chipped blade. Many chefs have a couple of different knives: some with thin edges for vegetables, and some with slightly thicker edges for butchering and for tougher veggies like acorn squash. From the larger manufacturers, Japanese knives tend to be thinner than European knives. Blade Material There much to be said about the various different blade materials used in chef knives, but there are a few primary things to consider for those of us who don’t have degrees in metallurgy.Corrosion resistance (high-carbon versus stainless) — this factor is mostly a matter of personal preference. High-carbon steels have been used for millennia, but they develop a dark patina overtime from the acid in the food. The patina is not harmful to the knife or to your health in any way, but it does change the appearance of the blade. Additionally, carbon steels will rust if they are left to air-dry. Stainless steels are a much more recent metallurgical development, but If you prefer a knife that stays shiny and requires less careful maintenance, than stainless steel is probably for you. Toughness vs. Edge Retention When choosing a knife steel, these two factors often conflict: tougher steels will support a thinner edge (and therefore cut better), but they usually do not stay sharp for quite as long as some of the harder or more wear-resistant steels. The harder steels, however, are typically more brittle and more likely to chip if the edge is too thin. As a general rule, carbon steels, such as 1095, W2, 80CRV2, and 1084 are usually tougher and stainless steels (such as 440C, 154CM, S30V, and VG10) are usually harder. There are some steels that strike a particularly good balance, including the carbon steel ApexUltra and the stainless steels MagnaCut and CPM3V. Ease Of Sharpening No matter the steel, every edge eventually gets dull, and then you need to re-sharpen it. Many professional chefs take pride in their ability to sharpen knives to a razor edge, and I believe that stone sharpening is a skill every knife user should know. Carbon steels and certain stainless steels, like AEB-L and NitroV tend to be easy to sharpen. Higher alloy “super steels” like MagnaCut and S30V are much more challenging to sharpen, as the wear-resistant properties that make them hold an edge for so long also make them resistant to the abrasives used to sharpen them. What About Ceramic Blades? Ceramic can make an incredibly sharp edge, but the issues of brittleness are too great to overcome, in my opinion, and they are nearly impossible to resharpen for most people. I am a firm believer that a good knife should last a lifetime, and the ceramic knives available on the market today will not. Blade Design and Shape Different knives serve different purposes, but the shape and design of the blade determine its versatility and comfort in use. If you like to rock your knife as you chop, than a more curved edge, such as a German style blade, is ideal. If you prefer to push cut, a straighter French profile is better. There are also a wide variety of Japanese profiles that have become quite popular throughout the world. The gyuto, for instance, is an excellent all-round chef knife style, as are the santoku and nakiri, though the latter two are more specialized for slicing, dicing, and chopping vegetables, and both have a flatter edge profile designed for push cutting. Integral Bolsters The bolster is the piece at the front of a knife handle that forms the transition from handle to blade. Many European designs feature an integral bolster, where the bolster is forged from the same steel as the rest of the blade. These bolsters can add significantly to the overall strength of the knife if done correctly. However, many factory-made knives have a bolster that extends all the way down the heel of the knife. This thick mass at the heel of the knife makes it considerably more difficult to resharpen, and should be avoided. Sharpness A sharp knife is an absolute joy to use, whereas a dull knife can be downright dangerous. Any good chef knife should arrive razor sharp, but you will need to maintain the edge overtime. Find someone who knows how to sharpen knives, or learn to sharpen them yourself. Weight A heavy knife makes chopping easier, as the weight of the knife can carry the blade into the cut, however, a knife that is too heavy can become tiresome to use if you are logging long hours in the prep kitchen or cooking a feast for the whole extended family. Balance There are two primary camps when it comes to chef knife balance: some chefs like the knife to balance right at the bolster, or the place where the handle meets the blade, and others like the balance to be a little further forward. Knives that balance at the bolster tend to give you better control of the tip of the knife for delicate tasks. Forward balance allows the blade to feel heavier, putting the weight where it is needed to help push the knife through the food. If the balance point is too far back in the handle, the knife is liable to fall off the cutting board and feel awkward to use. Handle Comfort and Design The best handle feels secure, even when working with wet or oily hands. Many chefs hold the knife in a “pinch grip,” where the thumb and one or two fingers are placed on the blade. In a pinch grip, the shape of the handle is less important than the smoothness of the transition from handle to blade. If you prefer to grip your knife with a “hammer grip,” grasping the handle with your whole hand, than you should pick a handle that feels natural in your hand. Slimmer handles can be more nimble, and thicker handles can give you better grip. Smoothly contoured handles often feel comfortable and help to avoid hotspots in the hand with prolonged use. Faceted or octagonal handles can help to index the blade in your hand so you know exactly where the edge is even without looking. Handle Material The two main factors in handle choice are appearance and durability. Exotic hardwoods and stabilized burl are popular choices for an elegant flashy appearance, and they last a long time if properly cared for. Synthetic materials such as Micarta, Richlite, G10, or plastic are more forgiving if they are left to soak in the sink. Rubber or silicone handles are popular on mass-manufactured knives, and they do provide an excellent grip, but you would be hard-pressed to find a hand-made or boutique brand knife with one of these softer materials. Full Tang vs. Hidden Tang This debate is a heated one and could merit an entire blog post by itself. Based on my experience, I have found that the best design for a natural wood handle (even if it is stabilized) is a hidden-tang, ideally with an integral bolster. Wood shrinks and expands and warps with changes in temperature and humidity, and the thin scales on a full-tang handle will peel away over time, leaving gaps for dirt and moisture to enter the handle. A hidden tang preserves more of the integrity of the wood with fewer seams for moisture to enter. With synthetic handle materials that are more stable in moist environments, full tangs can be perfectly suitable for kitchen use. The extra mass in the tang will also affect the balance point of the knife. Hand Made vs. Machine Made Knives from an individual craftsman or a small company can be the very highest-quality products, because they often use high-end materials and finish them meticulously by hand. If you decide to work with an individual craftsman, be sure to choose someone who really knows the ins and outs of edge geometry and sharpening, and ideally someone who likes to cook. There are many talented knife makers who do not know how to make a good kitchen knife. Jordan LaMothe is one such craftsman, who has become widely known for both his kitchen knives and his level of craftsmanship. The best kitchen knife isn’t always the most expensive or flashiest—it’s the one that works *with* you, not against you. Focus on quality materials, thoughtful design, and overall comfort. When you invest in the right knife, you're investing in a more efficient, enjoyable, and safe cooking experience. If you are curious what features I prefer in my personal cooking knives, look no further than the Jordan LaMothe Blades Farmstead lineup. I designed these knives based on years of experience in the forge and in the kitchen, and they perform beautifully. Looking to commission your own custom kitchen knife? Here is my contact form to start the process. About The Author Jordan LaMothe is a Master Bladesmith, a Fulbright scholar, a member of the Art Knife Invitational Show, and a teacher of knife-making. His work has won numerous awards and has been published in magazines internationally. 
Daggers have taken many forms across the world and throughout history. The word “dagger” refers to a bladed weapon, primarily designed for thrusting, and the category includes a wide variety of blades ranging from the symmetrical parrying daggers of Renaissance Europe to the curvy mail-piercing daggers of Persia and India, and everywhere in between. Whether it is worn as a symbol of status and authority, deployed as a weapon of last resort, used to perform religious rituals, or simply kept as a fine piece of craftsmanship, a dagger is always a potent symbol and a powerful object. In this blog, we’ll explore the key elements that set apart the very finest daggers in both form and function.
Intent Most people are familiar with the phrase “form follows function,” and it is of utmost importance in the realm of dagger design. As a piercing weapon, a dagger should be optimized for the application for which it is intended. For instance, a dagger designed for piercing through chainmail armor might have a thick, rigid point, and may not even be fully sharp on the edges, whereas one designed for use against unarmored opponents might be slimmer and razor sharp, to leave a deeper wound. Because daggers are seldom used in today’s world, many of the best contemporary daggers reference historical examples, imitating the blade geometry of those daggers that were designed back when the design of a blade could mean the difference between life and death. Craftsmanship Any well-made dagger should plainly display the skill of the craftsman who made it. Some of the hallmarks of good craftsmanship are precision, symmetry, grind consistency, and straightness. Every component should fit tightly against the next one with no gaps, and any symmetrical part of the design should be truly symmetrical with no discernible discrepancy from side to side. Some of the most challenging features to achieve are a perfectly straight central rib, edges that stay centered throughout the length of the blade, and symmetrical “plunge lines;” where the blade transitions from dull to sharp. Finely made pieces also feature consistent, intentional finishes: parallel sanding lines, crisp edges, and consistent textures that enhance the form, rather than distract from it. Material Selection There is no limit to the variety of materials that may be used to build a dagger, and like the blade geometry, the choice of materials should reflect the function of the dagger. A modern, tactical dagger, used for self-defense might require a stainless steel blade and a synthetic handle such as Micarta or G10. By contrast, a more historically-inspired dagger could have a blade made of bronze, carbon steel, wootz, or pattern-welded steel, and a handle made from ivory, or engraved metal, or wood wrapped in stingray skin, leather, or wire. Each handle material will affect the grip and weight of the dagger in different ways as well as the visual appeal of the piece. Higher-end daggers tend to use more expensive materials, often including precious metals such as silver and gold. Balance and Ergonomics The distribution of weight between handle and blade is one of the most important considerations in dagger design. A dagger that is too heavy or bulky feels dead in the hand, whereas a light and well-balanced dagger feels like an extension of your hand. The ideal balance point of a dagger depends on its size and intended use. European “left hand” or “main gauche” daggers typically balance right at the guard, making them particularly nimble for parrying sword blows. Smaller daggers for concealment or self defense often have a balance point further back, as they lack a heavy blade to offset the weight of the handle. Another factor that impacts the way a dagger feels is the grip design. Dagger grips range from very slender to quite thick, depending on the style, but they should never be too long for the hand. Ideally, a dagger grip is just long enough to sit in the palm of the hand with no extra room. As you tighten your hand around the dagger grip, the hilt should feel like it is gripping your hand in return. A textured hilt, such as twisted wire or ray skin also adds to the tactile experience and enhances the grip. Guards and Pommels Not all daggers have guards and pommels, but where they exist, (primarily on historical European daggers,) they represent a critical feature of the design. Typically the guard and pommel exhibit similar materials, design motifs, and embellishments, and often they relate proportionally to one another. Aesthetics and Embellishments One of the hallmarks of a custom dagger is its aesthetic detailing. Hand engraving, inlay, koftgari, and pierce-work are all examples of embellishments that can set a dagger apart and give it a unique allure. Custom designs may reflect historical themes, personal symbols, or even mythological inspirations. A collector or enthusiast seeking to commission one will often seek out an artist or artisan whose skillset and personal background best suit his or her vision for a project. Sheath Design and Presentation Any dagger benefits from a way to store it and display it. A sheath or scabbard is the traditional way to store and wear a blade. It also serves as a canvas for further embellishment to match or compliment the dagger. Some of the fanciest dagger scabbards feature wooden cores, wrapped in leather and lined with velvet, with metal fittings that are inlayed or engraved. The leather may also be carved or embossed with intricate designs. Another popular alternative to a sheath or scabbard is a display stand, allowing a dagger to be presented prominently in a home or a display case. A display stand can be minimalist in design, intended to direct all attention to the dagger itself, or it can be integrated with the dagger into a sculptural piece. A well-designed custom dagger is far more than just a weapon—it is a work of art that embodies the skill of the craftsman and the vision of its owner. From blade geometry and balance to materials and embellishments, each element contributes to the dagger’s overall elegance and utility. Whether it’s displayed as a collector’s piece or carried as a tool of self-defense, it stands as a timeless symbol of craftsmanship and power. Are you looking to commission your own custom dagger? Here is my contact form to start the process. If you are looking for a limited edition dagger that is ready to order, feel free to check out my shop. About The Author Jordan LaMothe is a Master Bladesmith, a Fulbright scholar, a member of the Art Knife Invitational Show, and a teacher of knife-making. His work has won numerous awards and has been published in magazines internationally. |
AuthorJordan LaMothe is a Master Bladesmith, a Fulbright scholar, a member of the Art Knife Invitational Show, and a teacher of knife-making. His work has won numerous awards and has been published in magazines internationally. Archives
October 2025
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